Handling Rabbits

  • When some rabbits feel threatened, they may react by grunting, lunging, boxing or even nipping. To prevent this, it’s important that the rabbit feel comfortable with you. This can easily be accomplished by speaking in a soft voice, moving slowly, and remembering that rabbits cannot see directly in front of their nose.
  • Always pet a frightened rabbit before picking it up. If a rabbit seems too frightened or reactive to take out of its cage, consider socializing the rabbit while it remains in its cage. Sit by the open cage door, talk softly to the rabbit, pet the rabbit, and reward curious and friendly behavior with small amounts of approved treats.
  • Once you establish trust with the rabbit, it will be more willing to let you carry it as long as you utilize the required holds when moving the rabbit. It’s important to know and respect that the majority of rabbits do not care to be held or carried. Making them feel secure and safe while holding them is key to maintaining their trust and their safety. When improperly handled, rabbits can easily cause themselves injury in an attempt to escape.
  • Two holds are recommended for transporting a rabbit:
    • Belly to your chest-
      • Place one hand behind the front legs and your other hand under the hind end. In a steady, confident and careful motion, bring the bunny to your chest and then position her head under your chin so that the bunny is in a vertical position. Keeping a rabbit’s feet securely planted against you will help them feel secure. Secure the hind end!
    • The football hold-
      • Extend one arm out and use the entire length of your opposite forearm to gently sweep the rabbit onto the extended arm and then pull close to your body using both arms. At this point, bunny’s face should be tucked in the crook of your elbow, and the side of the body should be spread out horizontally across your abdomen.
    • If you have a rabbit that is starting to squirm or struggle, drop to your knees as quickly as you can. A fall from a crouched position is less likely to cause the animal harm than a fall from several feet.
    • Confidence will come with experience. If you need help moving a rabbit, please do not let this deter you from socializing them. It’s always our most ‘difficult’ rabbits that need the most time with our cuddlers. Instead, please ask a more experienced volunteer or staff member for help, when available. If no one is available, please consider cuddling the rabbit in his or her cage.

 

 

Handling Guinea Pigs

  • Handling techniques for guinea pigs are much like the techniques used for rabbits. Though guinea pigs are a very small animal that nearly fits in your hand, always use two hands to pick up a guinea pig. They have major body mass on a very fine bone structure so improper handling can cause discomfort or pain.
  • Place one hand under the chest just behind the front legs, and the other supporting their rump. Keep them close to your body at all times.
  • Guinea pigs have poor eye sight and are therefore easy to startle. However, they are typically very docile, non-aggressive animals who very rarely bite. They are a great animal to start cuddling with if you are new to the world of small animals!
  • They are not good at jumping or climbing, but if you drape a towel over your lap as you sit on the floor, many pigs will sit on your lap (if you place them there) while you pet them. They particularly like to be pet on the nose, between the eyes.

Handling Small Rodents (mice, gerbils, hamsters)

  • If an animal is comfortable being handled it is important that they get at least a few minutes of interaction with a human a day. Rodents in particular will regress if their socialization isn’t kept up.
  • A rodent who tends to bite should be socialized slowly. The best way to do this is to touch the animal with one hand, and then immediately offer a treat on the flat palm of your opposite hand. Holding it between your fingers may result in an accidental nip,
  • Eventually you can progress to luring the rodent onto your arm or picking it up and then offering a treat.
  • To transport a small rodent you fear may nip you, wait for them to enter their toilet paper tube or similar hide-out. Cup the ends with the palm of your hands and gently place the tube or hide-out into the “playpen” tote.

Handling Rats

  • Many people have preconceived negative notions about rats, but rats are actually some of the most friendly, social and fun animals in the small animal room. Most of them enjoy socialization time with people and are quite docile.
  • They are also very smart; they can be trained to use a litter box and do tricks. To keep them stimulated and friendly, socialization time with small animal critter cuddlers is essential.
  • It’s a good idea to first talk nicely to the rat and let it sniff a finger. Some may touch their teeth to your finger; like many rodents, rats explore with their teeth. An exploratory nibble typically doesn’t hurt, though if you’re not used to it, it can definitely startle you.
  • To pick up a rat, pick them up with one hand over the back, grabbing them gently behind their front legs. Then quickly support their backend with your other hand. If the rat is grasping onto something in the cage, don’t pull too hard or you could injure it.
  • Frightened rats can be offered crafted “rat sacks” which are towels sewn into pouches. Curiosity typically overcomes them, they will crawl into the sack, allowing you to move them in the sack to the viewing room.
  • Rats typically love to crawl all over people, but you may want to lay a towel across your shoulders if you plan to let them do so for longer than just transporting them, in case they make a mess.
  • Rats love to play with toys, and they love to explore. Try setting up tubes and mazes for them in the viewing room. They will love it!

Handling Degus

  • Handling degus is a little different than handling the smaller rodents, as they are a little larger and they have a unique defense mechanism you must keep in mind.
  • While it is never a good idea to hold the smaller rodents by their tale either, you absolutely should NEVER hold a degu by its tail. A degu can detach its tail in order to flee a predator, and the tail will never grow back and can cause future health problems.
  • Degus are social and intelligent animals, but handling them daily is important to making them as adoptable as they can be. Pick a degu up by using one hand over the back, wrapping the fingers under the front legs. Use your other hand to cup the degu’s back end, making sure its legs don’t dangle. Then bring the degu close to your chest, making sure it is secure.
  • Reward the degu for allowing you to handle it, while you have it in your hands, if possible. You can do all of this standing near the degu’s cage, if you’d like, or you can take them to a viewing room and set up a small exercise pen.

Handling Chinchillas

  • Chinchillas can be quite difficult to handle, even for those who are experienced at it, mostly because they are quick and squirmy little critters. However, these animals need socialization too. Chinchillas can fit through small openings and can move very quickly, so we suggest socializing them in a viewing room, not an exercise pen.
  • If a chinchilla allows you to pick it up, firmly (but not tightly) hold it around its midsection, supporting its bottom, and hold it firmly against your chest. Move to your destination quickly, and set the chinchilla on the ground once the viewing room door is closed.
    • Holding chinchillas improperly can cause injuries or fur slip (chinchillas can ‘slip,’ i.e. release, their fur in order to escape a predator who may have a hold on it). Female chinchillas, when threatened, may also stand up on their hind legs. Some will project urine at their perceived attacker! So if you are not confident in moving a chinchilla by holding it, we suggest moving on to the next method.
  • If a chinchilla will not allow you to pick it up, do not chase it. Instead either socialize the animal in its cage or move it using a dust bath.
    • Place a dust bath vessel in its cage, and allow the chinchilla to enter the dust bath.
    • Once the chinchilla is in the dust bath house, slip your hand over the entrance to the bath and move the bath to your chest, so the opening is facing your body.
    • Move the chinchilla to the viewing room, close the door, and allow it to come out. If you are socializing bonded pairs, it is best (or at least most realistic) to move each chinchilla individually, being exceptionally careful that the free chinchilla does not escape the room when you are opening and closing the door to the viewing room.
  • Chinchillas are incredibly curious critters. They also like to climb, so they may perch on you and climb all over you – including to the top of your head. They will also likely nibble on your clothing and potentially your hands or hair. This behavior mimics grooming – a friendly behavior – and it is also how they explore their surroundings; it is not an aggressive behavior.

Handling Ferrets

  • Overall ferrets are not the kind of animal you can hold on to for any length of time. They are a very playful, active animal, and need a lot of exercise. They are also clever escape artists and can get through very small openings. Therefore, you should not use an exercise pen for a ferret as it won’t hold a ferret for long. Ferrets should be taken to an interview room for an opportunity to run around and play.
  • Cat toys without small, removable parts can be used to play with ferrets. They also like to play with stuffed animals (think about stuffed animals that would be appropriate for a small child to play with – no googly eyes or parts that can easily be dislodged and swallowed), crinkle tunnels, paper bags, etc.
  • It’s important to note that when many ferrets play, they play similar to puppies with playful nips and bites.
    • If a ferret it playing too rough, it’s important to note that nose tapping and any kind of physical discipline is not allowed.
    • Instead, respond by making a high-pitched “Yip!” This mimics the sound another ferret may make if his friend is playing too roughly. It may take a few repetitions before the ferret understands that his actions are causing that reaction.
    • If this does not work, transition into firmly, sternly telling the ferret “no,” without yelling or shouting. If that doesn’t work, placing the offending ferret in a “time out” away from the game can work as well.
  • Many ferrets understand gentle play, but teaching ferrets that don’t already know this rough play is not acceptable is an important step in helping that ferret become more “adoptable,” and is a very important role our cuddlers play in helping them find their forever homes.

Handling Reptiles

  • We take in a wide variety of reptiles at HAWS, but the most common are bearded dragons, geckos, aquatic and box turtles, and iguanas. Some of these species are most social than others.
  • An important note: All reptiles have the potential to carry bacteria that can be harmful to other animals in our small animal room. Therefore, before we talk about handling each one of these commonly surrendered reptiles, we must impress the importance of washing your hands well with warm, soapy water before handing any other animal after socializing with a reptile.
  • We recommend if you socialize a reptile that it be the last animal you socialize for that shift.
    • Bearded Dragons –
      • “Beardies” are highly social, friendly, and gentle reptiles.
      • To pick up a bearded dragon, slowly slide your hand under the belly of the dragon and carefully lift him up, letting its tail rest on your forearm. Bring it as close to your body as possible, using your other arm to gently rest on the top of the dragon’s back, securing it.
      • If the bearded dragon attempts to get away while in its cage, do not squeeze or grab it. Limit the time the beardie is suspended at a height from which it could get injured if it should fall.
      • Reward the dragon with treats while it’s being held so it starts to associate being picked up with rewards.
    • Geckos –
      • Leopard geckos are the species of gecko we see most often. Most take to handling rather well.
      • Young geckos, though, tend not to like being handled.
      • Geckos may bite, but as they don’t have teeth or strong jaws – it won’t hurt; they are just letting you know they don’t care for something that you are doing.
      • A gecko who is not used to handling should first be socialized in its habitat. Place your hand in the habitat and allow the gecko to walk over your hand and through your fingers. They are inquisitive reptiles, so they likely will come over to check you out.
      • Once the gecko is comfortable with your presence, allow it to walk onto your hand, and lift it up, cupping your other hand over him to catch it should it fall.
      • Never try to lift a gecko by its tail as they detach their tails to escape predators.
      • Once the gecko starts getting restless, it’s time to end the cuddling session and place it back in its habitat.
    • Turtles, aquatic or box –
      • We do not recommend ‘cuddling’ with turtles. Handling causes stress to turtles and can transmit diseases so it should be limited to necessary functions of cleaning and care.
    • Iguanas –
      • Frequent handling helps keep iguanas tame, which is especially important once iguanas get larger.
      • Like most other animals in the small animal room, cuddling iguanas means building trust first. Sit near it, talk sweetly to it, and keep your movements slow and smooth. Place your hand in the cage by iguana and watch his movements.
        • Is it bobbing its head?
        • Is its dewlap (the sac on his neck) extending?
        • Is its tail twitching?
        • These are signs the Iguana is feeling threatened, and it’s probably a good idea to continue the socializing session in its cage, without handling.
      • You can still do a lot of good by sitting near the iguana’s cage, talking to it, and letting it get used to being so close to a human.
      • After a while, if the iguana looks calm and relaxed again, you can try placing your hand back in the cage, without touching it. If the iguana is calm with your hand in its cage, slowly try to pet the iguana.
      • Again, if there is any sign the iguana is stressed, regress to the previous step.
      • Once it appears the iguana is comfortable being touched, you can pick it up.
      • If the iguana is smaller, scooping it up under the belly with your hand will do. However, if it is a larger iguana, support both its belly and its pelvic region with your forearm.
      • Some handling cautions: Like geckos, iguanas can drop their tails, so never grab an iguana’s tail. Unlike geckos, Iguanas have sharp teeth and sharp claws, so never grab an iguana’s tail.

Handling Birds

  • Socialization and enrichment is extremely important for a captive bird’s wellbeing, but this means different things for different species. While finches seem content with socialization of their own kind, other birds such as cockatiels and conures need the enrichment our cuddlers can provide to keep them happy and healthy.
  • When socializing a bird, wheel or carry the entire cage into a viewing room and close the door before opening the cage. Bring a clip with you in order to hold open the cage door, then allow the bird to climb out of the cage on its own.
  • Never grab a bird, as their hollow bones can be very fragile. You can offer a finger (or arm, depending on the size of the bird) to see if the bird will come to you.
  • With birds it is important to praise good behavior while ignoring the bird if it exhibits undesirable behavior. To provide extra enrichment, hide treats instead of offering them freely. Birds are natural foragers, and looking for treats is mentally stimulating for them.

Handling Hedgehogs

  • Hedgehogs can be a challenge pet to cuddle, especially during the day. They are nocturnal animals, who typically dislike their sleep interrupted. However, that’s nothing a treat can’t fix.
  • Don’t let hedgehogs’ sharp spines intimidate you. They are not barbed like a porcupine, and while they can cause injury they very rarely actually puncture human skin. They also cannot throw spines in defense. Instead, their defense mechanism is to curl into a tiny ball, exposing only their spiny backsides. Because of this, it is often intimidating to handle a hedgehog.
  • Frequent socializing, especially at a young age, is important in gaining a their trust.
  • To protect yourself you may want to use a towel when handling a hedgehog.
  • First, allow the hedgehog to smell your hands while you speak softly and sweetly to it. Hedgehogs have poor eye sight, so just reaching in and grabbing it will likely startle it. Never try to pick a hedgehog up from above.
    • If the hedgehog curls into a ball in the cage –
      • It is okay, you can still pick it up.
      • Still scoop it gently up, using a towel to carry it to a room. If he remains in a ball, sit with it in your lap on top of a towel.
      • Don’t poke or prod it. Once it feels like it is not threatened, it will poke its head out and start to explore.
    • If the hedgehog does not curl into a ball –
      • Once it is aware of your presence, place your hands palm side up on either side of the hedgehog. If you do this while the hedgehog is in a corner of its cage, it will be more likely to walk onto your hands.
      • Gently push your hands underneath the standing hedgehog. Cup your hands and lift the animal up while cradling it in your hands. Keep fingers together and out of the way of the hedgehog’s belly in case it rolls into a ball.
      • Bring the hedgehog to your chest, supporting its bottom with one hand and gently holding your other hand over its back for security, and carry it to a visiting room where you have a small exercise pen set up for it to explore.
    • Don’t be afraid to bribe the hedgehog; hedgehogs love treats and it’s a good thing for them to associate being picked up with something positive!
    • Don’t try to pet a hedgehog unless it is relaxed. A relaxed hedgehog will lay down its spines. Then you can try to pet it in the direction the spines are laying. Avoid the hedgehog’s face, as they typically don’t like their faces touched.

Handling Sugar Gliders

  • Sugar gliders are curious, playful animals who love to jump, climb, and chew. While they are very social creatures, they are also nocturnal so they are most likely to be sleeping during the day when the shelter is open.
  • Being marsupials, sugar gliders have a natural affinity for pouches, so that’s normally where you can find them in their cage in the middle of the day. Sugar gliders can be quite vocal, so if you wake them you may hear about it, but they are more bark than bite.
  • Holding the sugar glider in its pouch is a good way to socialize a sleepy sugar glider. Sugar gliders have delicate digestive systems so excessive treats should not be given.

WANT TO LEARN MORE?

There are many fascinating critters that pass through our small animal room. Some you may never have heard of before, and others you may have heard of but have never gotten to see or interact with in real life. While we applaud and encourage all our volunteers to learn more about the animals that come through our small animal room, there are a lot of bad resources out there and very few good ones- especially on the internet.

Many of these animals have not been popular pets for long, and therefore, veterinarians and scientists are learning new information all the time. We work with veterinarians with special education in exotic animals to make sure all our small animals are properly care for. We provide these suggested resources below to aid you in your journey learning about these fascinating animals, but we will always default to our vets and the specialist vets that help us care for our small animals as the final say in animal care.

Please use the following websites as resources, but if you find information that contradicts practices at HAWS, please talk to the volunteer coordinator about your concerns before you deviate from any practice laid out in this handbook or shown to you by a staff member.